Pinterest finds that make me happy

I have found some items that I think can revolutionize my clothes for work:

c.1858 crinoline from The Met

Pretty stays c. 1850 from The Met

working class stays c.1850-70 from Corsets and Crinolines

It only took 2 whole years

December 2010.  No paint, drab nasty green curtains

Summer 2011.  New paint job, same crappy old door, and the nasty green curtains that do not match and are hung improperly.

September 2012.  New curtains (hung incorrectly for the moment), paint all finished, living room reorganized

September 2012.  Curtains rehung in the correct position, tie backs secured to the wall and everything in place.

Hi I'm Charlie and I approve of the work my mom does.  It makes me happy

 This is part of why it takes me a million years to sew anything.  I keep working on putting our household in order and making it pretty.

Pink Jackets

I'm starting to get motivated to do more sewing despite all the home repairs I've been making.  A few months ago I mentioned this little pink jacket I wanted to make for work.  I finally started on it.  No pattern, draped by me from rectangular pieces of taffeta.  I'm quite pleased so far.

The inspiration: Portrait of M. Obleuhova 1855. vasily pukirev. russian  From this site

The jacket I've started draping over the last few days

Almost time for 1861

A side view with no boning in place

The front, still no boning

I've been working on this for a while.  In honor of the Columbia SHP back to school event, I'm doing an 1861 inspired outfit for Saturday (and probably tomorrow also).  I haven't taken any photos lately, but all that's missing right now are the lacing holes up the front.  I'm so excited.

Thoughts on the subject of "costuming"

I found an interesting piece at work today while I was cleaning up, so I photocopied it.  Below is a transcription of it, I don't know the date it was written or who wrote it.

The interpretive time period for Columbia is 1850-1870.  Some of the businesses may reflect a shorter time period.  Your clothing should reflect that time.  The following is general information, for more specific details you can get the Columbia Costuming Manual at the District Office.

Women:
Women should wear either a skirt and blouse or dress.  The blouse or dress top should have loose, long sleeves which may be rolled up, the bodice should reach to the neckline, no scoop necks.  The skirt should be full, it does not have to drag on the floor but can reach the ankles.  Gunny Sax dresses are not appropriate.  A bib apron may be worn.  Shoes should be dark and comfortable, no exercise shoes.

So according to this general outline I can wear a bustle dress.  The shop I work in was still in operation as a general store during the 1870s (in fact it has been ever since with the exception of a few years when it was home to a candy store).  Guess I can also wear the skirt/blouse combo too.  Good to know considering my new project.

Lovely plaid skirt, blouse, from The Barrington House

photo by Lady Clementina Hawarden from The V&A

photo by Lady Clementina Hawarden from The V&A

In honor of Friends of Columbia State Historic Park's 1861 Back to School night on 15 September, I'm declaring September Swiss Waist month in Columbia, CA (and the surrounding areas if you like).

I've already started mine.  It's a nice chocolate brown jacquard that I'll be wearing with the skirt from my 1850s fan front dress and a variety of shirts.

1840s green fan front dress (construction details)

I went ahead and did it.  I made a short(er) sleeved dress for work.  After going home one day with heat exhaustion due to EXTREME weather conditions and very non-summery clothing, I said enough was enough.  I still maintain, despite a lack of concrete evidence at the moment, that women in Columbia did not necessarily adhere to the standards of European society  or the upper class women of the East Coast.

So I got to thinking, what can I make this outfit out of?  I went to JoAnn's and found a very nice green plaid homespun.  It wasn't what I went in for, but it worked well enough.  I wanted a semi-sheer print, but I guess that will have to wait.  Upon getting home, I went to work on it.

This first dress was probably the primary inspiration for my new dress:

Woman’s dress made in America between 1840-45.  Constructed in cotton.  Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979, Accession Number: 1979.346.35.  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art, http://www.metmuseum.org.

Woman's Dress made in the United States c.1840, attributed to an American maker.  Constructed in Gold China silk crepe with silk embroidery in satin stitch.  Gift of Howard H. Lewis, John F. Lewis III, and Mrs. Anne L. Stoudt, 1979.  From the Philadelphia Museum of Art, http://www.philamuseum.org.

Dress showing the lining and center front closures.  Uploaded by Anette Bethke, http://pinterest.com/netnet81/.

“D01-87.    AWESOME EYES!”  c.1851, American (possibly Ohio).  From Dennis A. Waters Fine Daguereotypes, http://finedags.com. 

Afternoon dress.  Constructed in cotton c.1843 in America.  Purchased from The German Fur Federation Gift, 1981.  Accession number 1981.14.5.  From the Metropolitan Museum of Art, http://www.metmuseum.org.

Armed with these images, I set to work on drafting up some patterns from Patterns of Fashion for the 1852 day dress (again).  I altered the actual bodice a bit in the neckline and the sleeves on mine are much more practical for what I believe a working woman could have worn.

The lining and a trial version of the skirt

back view of the lining

I love how scooped the lining is

Trial of the pleats

Here's what we're aiming for, more or less

Close up and flashed

I raised the hemline of the corded petticoat I made last year after reading an article on skirt supports at historicalsewing.com.  It works WONDERFULLY now

Just about done, sorry for the blurriness

 

does it make your eyes hurt yet

Major thanks also to Katherine at The Fashionable Past for her article: An Easy, Authentic Eighteenth Century Petticoat that I used for making the skirt.

Since Columbia SHP will be having an 1861 themed back to school night on Sep. 15th, I'm planning a nice little Swiss waist to wear with a cute white shirt I made (also with elbow length sleeves ;) )

Final photos to follow soon...

Setting myself straight

I think it might be necessary to post a little list to keep myself focused on the projects I need to complete (mostly so all the fabric strewn across the garage can be picked up and put into plastic bins and stored nicely).

Modified from the list in the 2011 wrap up post
1. Garbaldi blouses in red, white, and black
2. a maroon skirt with blue wool trim
3. a blue wool bodice
4. a black/blue striped bustle dress with red petticoat, c. 1869
5. a green skirt with box pleated ruffle
6. the green striped dress with matching Swiss waist
7. Pink and poofy 3 tiered skirt
8.1850s purple striped basque jacket
9. 1960 Princess Margaret wedding dress
10. 1837-41 day dress
11. Green skirt with pink silk basque
12. 1839-45 day dress in paisley
13. 1840s Barbie pink taffeta jacket
14. Short-er sleeved white shirt for summer
15. Early 16th century court dress with brown "fur" turnbacks
16. c.1848 day bodice and skirt in green plaid homespun
17. 18th century stays in red taffeta